TRAVEL
With support from the European Union, the Mountain Societies Development Support Programme (MSDSP - a project of the Aga Khan Foundation) has opened a Tourism Information Centre in Khorog, located in the Central Park.
There are several ways of getting to Tajikistan and Gorno-Badakhshan.
For general (and very useful) travel advice, see
here
1. via Dushanbe
1. via Dushanbe
a) Turkish Airlines flight from Istanbul: in summer outward on Sunday,
Monday and Wednesday (return the following day) - see the Turkish Airlines website for details:
http://www.thy.com/en-INT/index.aspx.
N.B. This is by far the most comfortable (and probably safest) option,
and relatively cheap fares can be obtained through booking well in advance.
b) Air Baltic flies twice a week Monday and Friday (from 1 June 2009) from Riga to Dushanbe:
Boeing 737, Dep. 19h55 Arr. 03h10 the next day. Return Tuesday and Saturday Dep 05h20
Arr. 9h10. This schedule gives adequate time for connections from and to other European
destinations. The online booking price for economy is extraordinarily cheap and Air Baltic
could become the preferred option. See
http://www.airbaltic.com/public/timetable.html.
c) The Asia-Plus news agency announced on 20 May 2009 that Tajik Air plans to resume
flights Dushanbe-Munich-Dushanbe from June 2009. The new flight will be on Monday and
will be direct (not via Istanbul as previously). The Tajik Air website is impenetrable on the subject.
d) Domodedovo airlines and Tajikistan Airlines fly daily Moscow-Dushanbe from
Domodedovo Airport (on some days more than one flight). The schedule can be
found on
http://www.domodedovo.ru/en/main/timetablenew/.
Most of these flights allow an onward connection to Dushanbe the same day from
international flights arriving in Domodedovo. For flights arriving in Sheremetevo,
at least 2 hours travel time - not counting immigration and check-in - must be
allowed for the airport transfer (expensive by taxi), otherwise, on the way to
Dushanbe, travellers must spend a night in Moscow, which can be expensive and for
which a Russian visa is required (also expensive). The timing of the return flight,
however, makes it possible to connect the same day with flights to most international
destinations. Several international airlines now use Domodedovo rather than
Sheremetevo. A complete listing can be found on
http://www.domodedovo.ru/en/main/timetablenew/.
e) Other connections:
Dushanbe can be reached from other airports in the CIS and elsewhere.
Probably the best alternative route to those listed above is via Bishkek
in Kyrgyzstan. This is particularly useful for travellers planning to combine
Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan on their tour. N.B. It is possible to buy a return ticket
from Turkish Airlines Istanbul/Dushanbe and Bishkek/Istanbul or vice versa.
It is very hard to find
information on flights from Kyrgyzstan to Dushanbe and vice versa. They exist but you must get
confirmation from the airline or from a local travel agent before believing any information
you may find on the Internet. The following airlines have/had connections from Bishkek to Dushanbe:
Tajik Air (if you have the patience to wait for the Tajik Air website to load, it contains a list of their offices - try
here).
Avia Traffic Company (See
http://www.aero.kg/index.php/flight-schedule- Russian only).
Kyrgyzstan Airlines (website impossible to find)
N.B. All air carriers certified by the authorities with responsibility for regulatory oversight
of the Kyrgyz Republic are banned by the European Union (see
http://ec.europa.eu/transport/air-ban/list_en.htm).
In February 2008 a new private Tajik airline, Somon Air, was announced. It used to have
an online timetable but this has disappeared. Somon Air announced in June 2009 a new
flight Dushanbe-Frankfurt-Dushanbe (Boeing 737-800) on Wednesday and Saturday starting on
29 July 2009. Wednesday depart Frankfurt 15h30 arrive Dushanbe 00h30 - Saturday depart
Frankfurt 15h20 arrive Dushanbe 00h20. Return Wednesday depart Dushanbe 02h35 arrive
Frankfurt 05h50 - Saturday depart Dushanbe 03h10 arrive Frankfurt 06h30. It is not clear
where tickets can be bought except in Dushanbe - try asking them at
info@somonair.com.
Wikipedia is a useful source of fairly up-to-date information on these and other airlines.
My best advice is to contact a travel agent in Bishkek or Dushanbe for these connections.
One of the most reliable is Dima Melnichkov of Tajikaviatour in Dushanbe - 32 Bukhoro Street,
Dushanbe-734025 phone: + 992 37 227 4725, fax: + 992 37 221 1934 - e-mail
here). Dima is the author of the
booklet Travel through Tajikistan published in Dushanbe - see section
References, bibliography and links.
Dushanbe-Khorog
Once in Dushanbe, unless they have been able to obtain a mention of
Gorno-Badakhshan on their visa, travellers must spend up to three days
obtaining a special stamp in their passport authorising them to travel
to Gorno-Badakhshan. (See the section on
Visas
for help in obtaining this.)
From Dushanbe, travel to Gorno-Badakhshan is either by air to Khorog or by road
(approximately 14 hours in a modern four-wheel drive vehicle, longer in a
commercial bus). Subject to the provisos listed below, there are one or more
flights every day to and from Khorog.
Flights to Khorog are in a small plane that only departs Dushanbe if there is no
cloud cover on the mountains on the way into Khorog and if Tajik Air determines
that there are sufficient passengers to make the flight economical. All flights
originate in Dushanbe, which means that there is only a flight Khorog-Dushanbe
if the flight Dushanbe-Khorog has taken place. In the absence of flights,
arrangements must be made for
travel by private car or bus.
The Lonely Planet guide describes the flight as “one of the main attractions of
Khorog” and “one of the most exhilarating or terrifying experiences of your
life” – the plane “flying in the shadow of the rockface with its wingtips so
close you could swear they kick up swirls of snow”.
In Dushanbe there are a few acceptable hotels: information can be obtained from
several websites (search on Dushanbe and hotels)
2) via Osh in Kyrgyzstan
Osh, the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan, is situated in the South of the
country. A paved road runs South from Osh to the last Kyrgyz checkpoint, Sary
Tash (190km, 4 hours by private vehicle). From there a partially paved road
leads across the Pamir plateau to Khorog (540km, 12 hours – several passes at
altitudes higher than 4,000m). The various checkposts will not allow travellers
to pass unless their Tajik visas
mention specifically the destination of Gorno-Badakhshan.
There is no public transport available between Osh and Khorog.
Travellers must try to
make their own arrangements either with private vehicles or with one
of the trucking companies operating out of Osh. N.B. There is only one human
settlement (at the Kara Kul lake) between Sary Tash and Murghab (230km, altitude 3,640m).
3) via Tashkent
Transiting via Tashkent requires travelling by road to Khujand in Northern
Tajikistan and then flying with Tajik Air to Dushanbe or continuing by road; an
Uzbek visa is required. Until the Uzbek frontier posts are more accommodating to
international tourists, travel via Tashkent to Dushanbe is not recommended, although see the following section.
TRAVEL BY PRIVATE CAR
A recent report, describing a journey made in 2009 in a private vehhicle from Austria to Tibet, reports that
no major problems were encountered at the Uzbek border coming from Tashkent nor on the Tajik side. The group crossed the frontier at Bustan, north of Khujand,
and left through Kyzylart on the Pamir Highway. Unfortunately the blog is only in German: see
here
TOUR OPERATORS
For foreign and Tajikistan-based tour operators, use your web browser to find existing
tours – for general information
begin with the search terms Tajikistan and tours – refine your search
with one or more specific locations, e.g. Pamir, Somoni, Pik Lenin, Sarez,
Bartang, Zorkul.
Several European agencies now organise tours to the Pamirs. See
http://www.horizonsnouveaux.com/
http://www.globotrek.ch/
http://www.indoorient.ch/
For Trekking:
Surat Toimastov in Dushanbe
e-mail
here or
here; tel (00 992
372) 23 54 24, mobile 00 992 95 151 7567
(See also his website
http://www.pamir-adventure.com).
– see section on
Trekking,
and
Goulya Petrova e-mail
here
For trekking in the Bartang valley, including Sarez, and around Bulunkul, you
could contact Odina Nurmamadov, who comes from the village of Bassid in the
Bartang, e-mail
here.
New Tour Operators:
For an attractive and rather different approach to tour organising, see Matthieu Paley's new website:
www.pamirknot.com. Matthieu, in addition to being a superb photographer with high
sensibility for the dignity of the people he portrays, is an intrepid and well-informed high mountain
traveller. I wish him well with this promising new venture.
A new tour operator PamirLink offers special Eco-Cultural packages that include volunteer
project work - See
here. I also wish good luck to Roman Droux,
an old Pamir hand, who is workinh on this venture with Odina Nurmamadov (see above, under Trekking).
Pamir Trek Association, a new non-commercial group of guides to the Pamirs, including neighbouring regions of
Kyrgyzstan, has recently been formed with special emphasis on horse trekking. See
here.
For Hunting:
If you are a hunter, or want to see Marco Polo sheep - or just want to
visit one of the most remote corners of the Pamirs and stay in a hunting
camp (Jarty Gumbez) with a hot spring, get in touch with
Atobek Bekmurodov
Tel Murghab (+992 3554) 333
Khorog (+992 35220) 3333 / 2982 / 4113
Dushanbe
(+992 372) 23 34 00 / 21 17 43
Moscow (+7495) 362 0830 / 361 42 84.
e-mail
here.
or
Tolibek Gulbekov
66 Lenin Street Murghab
Tel (+992 3554) 21 639
Also in Dushanbe:
Dekhoti Street 21/3 Apartment 33
Tel (+992 372) 34 06 20
IMPORTANT NOTICE ON SAFETY
The Pamirs are very much "virgin territory" for tourism. Make certain that
you know the conditions of the tracks, rivers and bridges that you envisage taking
and check meteorological conditions. For example:
c) flooding/flash floods can destroy roads and make driving dangerous
d) unseasonal snow can block the Pamir Highway and other roads
See photos below and the note on safety on the
trekking page.